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Before
you can consider your construction you must consider your isolation
requirements. Pages could be written on this subject but you must consider
how much isolation you really want. The idea of perfect isolation from
external noise started in the days when loose miking techniques were
used. One microphone suspended over a string section meant the mic was
wound up fully and was extremely sensitive to ambient noise. Nowadays
a mic 6" from a marshal amp is a totally different story. At Big
Toe Studios I often have a window open and the artist will say -"
Hey I can hear the birds, should I close the window?" To which
I reply, "No, the only person who will hear it is some stoned out
freak with headphones on who will remark excitedly - wow man I can hear
birds on this track!" But if you have problem neighbours who don't
like drums pounding all day I suggest you apply a certain amount of
sound isolation.
The acoustic
term here is Transmission Loss. When sound hits a wall there
is a certain proportion of the sound reflected back into the room, some
is lost in the absorption of the wall and the rest travels through the
wall and is called the transmission loss.

TRANSMISSION
LOSS
The amount
of sound that is transmitted through the wall is called the:
Sound
Transmission Class- STC
The transmission
loss obviously varies relative to frequency - the STC
is a specially weighted reading across all frequencies and is centred
around 500Hz.. Every different wall construction has a different transmission
class.
When sound
hits a wall the energy is transferred through the plasterboard to the
other side via the connection to the stud. This problem can be reduced
via two ways:
- Staggered
Studs. Here you use two studs for each side of the wall. The plasterboard
on one side is attached to one stud and the plaster on the other side
is attached to the other stud. The two studs are connected to a common
base and top plate.

- Flexible
Channel. Here a metal channel is attached to the stud and the
plasterboard attached to the metal channel thus reducing the connection
to the stud. The channels are mounted horizontally at 600mm (2 feet)
centres. This system is extremely effective - check out the figures
in the STC Chart.

Studs:
- Except
for staggered stud systems, substituting timber studs for steel
studs generally results in a significant decrease in sound
isolation.
- Increasing
the thickness of steel studs from 0.55BMT to 0.75BMT or 1.15BMT will
decrease sound isolation
- Decreasing
the stud spacing will decrease the sound isolation.
It is also
interesting to note here that the higher the transmission loss the less
reflected sound. In other words in a tent there is a high transmission
loss but also a low amount of reflected sound so a tent makes a good
recording room!! So people in the country who can afford a high transmission
loss because there's no close neighbours can allow their sound to get
away thus reducing the amount of treatment required to handle the reflected
sound.
The standard
gypsum wall in a house has a high transmission coefficient at 100Hz
as well as a high absorption figure because the gypsum panel's resonate
frequency is around that figure. Therefore the reverb in the room is
low around 100Hz but higher around 300Hz where the transmission and
absorption are lower. That is why most rooms in a house have a reverb
peak around 300Hz. (You know the one you keep taking out of kick drums
and toms.) Check it out on the reverberation
calculator.
Perfect
isolation can cost heaps because there is only one thing that will stop
sound and that is MASS. The following solutions apply:
- Floating
the rooms. A typical construction consists of creating new rooms
within your existing rooms. This means building a floor on top of
the existing floor with neoprene isolation pads and Rockwool on the
underside and then building walls and a ceiling using the new floor
as a base. This is the ideal system for total isolation because the
new room is not mechanically connected to the main room but it is
also the most expensive system. The main advantage of floating rooms
is the low frequency isolation it gives. If you are building in a
block of flats it would be essential as it is the only real way of
achieving total sound isolation but if you are building a garage studio
it really would depend on how much isolation you require. If you are
an acoustic folk band - forget it - if you are a heavy metal power
band it is essential because it is the only way you will stop the
bass and kick drum from annoying your neighbours.
- Double
Walls. This basically means building two timber/gypsum sheet walls
between each room with Rockwool in the cavity. If you wish to go further
you can double the layer of gypsum and even further by sandwiching
a layer of fibre board between the two sheets of gypsum. (This is
extremely effective because sound doesn't like going through changing
medium densities). There are some companies who make sound isolation
gypsum which is thicker and heavier than normal gypsum sheet. In Australia
it's called Soundcheck and is 16mm(5/8") thick. The hollow concrete
block -(Besser Block) is an excellent wall construction as it attenuates
sound efficiently and cheaply.
- Sealed
Environment. There is one important factor that must be understood
about sound isolation. If you build a beautifully sealed wall between
two rooms you will get good isolation BUT if you put one nail
hole in the wall you will loose a lot of the isolation!! Sound is
really not the waves we keep on describing but air pressure difference
so if you allow the two air masses to join at any point the pressure
gradient will transfer, so make sure that all walls are sealed
tightly. Also make sure all joints around doors, windows and air-conditioning
ducts are sealed.

Double
Wall with Floating Floor
In the
drawing above I've drawn a single gypsum (pale blue) layer but adding
to the layer can dramatically increase the transmission loss. The options
are
- Adding
another layer of gypsum which is glued (not nailed) to the first sheet
and should be a different thickness than the first sheet. i.e. 16mm
(5/8") and 12mm (1/2")
- sandwiching
a layer of fibreboard between the two sheets.
This really
works well, a double wall with a triple layer as described above on
a floating
floor will create a room that will allow you to set up a band and
not hear it outside the room! Just remember that all the sound is now
trapped inside the room and heavy acoustic treatment is required to
control it all.

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