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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 7:07 am 
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I think I wasnt clear about my question. thats not what I meant.

Look at this picture.
There is no way to put drywall on the exposed stud, since you can't reach the framing from behind (there is the existing wall), so you have to make it on the ground and then lift it up, that will leave an exposed stud, where the adjacent framing continues.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 7:52 am 
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yes - that occurs but it's not a problem as the stud acts instead of the drywall.

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:00 am 
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Fabulous :)

I will start posting pics as soon as my contractor reviews the costs and start the build.
I will go for a single 5/8 GB layer for cost purposes. I modeled it and it gave me a very good stc rating (probably like 67 or 70 depending on real life building). The 20cm concrete was a big help! In the worst case, I will go double layer on the ceiling but those will be some heavy fokers to lift up !

I'll keep you posted if we find any questions, but so far I'm pretty clear. Thanks a lot!

Last thing john. is it better to leave the slot resonator walls empty or fill it with loose insulation? (besides the insulation that goes in the framing)

Cheers

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:54 am 
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I usually recommend you throw all your insulation off cuts into the cavity but don't let the insulation interfere with the ports of the resonators, i.e don't fill the front wall behind the slots.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:42 am 
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hi,
I left a 120mm over hang on every 2nd corner.
Covered it will no more nails and slide it into place.
I may not have helped..but
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:00 pm 
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That's a good idea.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 4:46 pm 
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Cool Lil !

By the way, does any of you guys have some pics of a finished inside out ceiling?
I need some finish ideas to mount lights, etc. I dont wanna end with a loosely cloth covered ceiling that looks like crap :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 5:11 pm 
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The best way to have a nice ceiling is to make panels for the cloth out of 2" x 1" framing with cross pieces that hold the lights.

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 5:43 pm 
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What about this?
A nice stained wooden slot placed over the ceiling's cloth. ( a couple of these across the ceiling)
Do you think it could be safe? since the lights gets pretty hot


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 5:48 pm 
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exactly - the insulation isn't catch on fire is it? Just make sure there's some space around the light fitting for the air/heat transfer to occur.


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 8:41 am 
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Guys, whats a common contractor's handwork fee ?

I just received quotation from mine today, and even tho its an acceptable price , there are items that doesnt make any sense. For example. They are charging me twice the cost of a rockwool sheet, what for? Installing them its not any nuclear science.
Same with drywall, almost twice the price for handwork. Is that the common fee? (for what I see here, almost 80% to 100% of material costs)

There are things that I can DIY for sure! but others like framing that would be a major pain in the ass. So I either go with them, or DIY.

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 3:58 pm 
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Well. after emailing this contractor and having him telling me in a polite way "you are on your own", welcome me to de DIY world ! :)
However, I'm gonna hire a guy to do the hard work (framing and drywalling)
I'll do all the caulking and everything else from there

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 6:30 pm 
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good onya mate :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 6:50 pm 
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By the way today I just got Rod's book. its pretty amazing
Great to have it now since it has very cool pictures for window and door seals!

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 5:13 am 
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John,
The stud spacing you used on you model was 16", should I stick to that or change to 24"oc
I need to know that since I'll be ordering the timber studs in a few days and need to count them :)

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