John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

zero international is an excellent source for door seals.

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Glenn

I attached a cad drawing of my current dimensions now that the new walls and drywall are up. I have an idea of what I want to do for room treatments but I would really love some feedback from you guys.

If someone is bored and wants to make a 3D sketchup drawing of my rooms I would love them long time.

i calculated that my room modes from my length and width dimensions are:

31, 63, 92, 126

and for my height are:

71, 141, 212, 283

how do i go about treating these specifically?

My natural instinct is to put wide, deep bass traps in the corners of the rooms from floor to ceiling. Was leaning towards framed 703. would a membrane or helmholtz resonator be better or worse?

i was wanting to stagger membrane (panel) absorbers and burlap wrapped insulation absorbers around the room. i obviously don't know the best way to approach this.

my control room is a whole 'nother beast. that shallow back wall sucks. i'm only facing the shallow depth because of the slanting ceiling going upwards behind me.

thoughts for bass trapping behind me? i was thinking of building a triangular slot resonator under the window and putting a chair on either side of it. I naturally think to put a couch there but I want people to be able to stand in front of that window for live tracking purposes. I was thinking that the triangular slot resonator could double as a end table between the two chairs (not my biggest priority).

Thoughts please?

cloud array above my mix position on my 6' 11" ceiling?

see my attached picture for the live room ceiling as well. this was my idea for ceiling diffusors/absorbers with recessed lighting inside of the 5 pyramids. I think the circles will end up being squares for the sake of construction.

please help!

thanks!

definitely look for the simpler solutions first - corner trapping, 4" absorbers on first reflection points. and yes, a cloud hung and angled over the mix desk - half your modes are the floor and ceiling. make it a rigid backed - 3/4" ply and 3/4" MDF with 4" cloth absorption on the front and angle it down in the front about 12" above your monitors and just below the ceiling over your seat (since you are mostly sitting at the desk it shouldn't be a problem...)

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Glenn

thanks Glenn, any idea on the horizontal dimensions of the cloud?

any thoughts about the live room?

maybe leave a 12" (300mm) gap all around the edge of the cloud and just pas your seating position. in the live room - scattered absorption on the ceiling helps with any reflections and keep things alive. if it turns out to be too dry, adding some suspended panels on angles can help bring up the HF.

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Glenn

I'm well on my way and am getting closer by the day.

I'm working on my control room acoustical treatments now and I have some questions/concerns.

Obviously it's not the best idea to setup my mix position in the narrow point of the room. I initially chose to do it this way mainly because of the slanted ceiling. I considered switching back but my wires come out on that wall, my lights are installed that way and my window is on the opposing wall based on where my mix position would be. All that to say, it's kinda too late to switch.

I'm about to start building absorption panels for behind my speakers and i had the idea about soffit mounting my speakers. I started measuring to see how far my monitors would be into the room and how much space there would be between the mix position and the couch and it's not much..... I thought, if it soffit mounted the speakers against the front wall (not in the corners) but build enclosures I could have the speakers closer to the front wall and hopefully create some more space in the room.

thoughts? suggestions? diagrams?

I'm using NS-10M STUDIO monitors with a Yamaha HS10W sub.

Maybe you would explain the flooring you are putting down, the 2X4 sleepers you have under tham and how that actually works?

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

The laminate flooring that I got had some new and (maybe) improved technology that had tongue and groove not only on the sides but also on the ends. I had to measure, cut out, snap together and lay down the entire length of a row and snap it down as one piece. We laid the second layer of subfloor and then the laminate floors and it took one 18 hour day.... FML

Flooring is:

Concrete Slab / 1" Rigid Insulation / 3/4" exterior grade plywood / Quiet Glue Pro (2 tubes per 4x8 sheet) / 1/8" plywood / laminate floors (all layers are turned 90 degrees to the previous)

any thoughts on the soffit mounting?

i'm not really doing it for the huge amount of bass from my NS-10ms. I'm thinking of doing it for the fact that I need all of the space that I can get and it would allow me to have the speakers close to the front wall as opposed to 38% of the way into the room which means I'm mixing on my clients laps....

It's not the monitors which are placed at 38%, it's the listening position, which means that the speakers will be a few feet forward of this position. Also keep in mind that 38% is not a rule, it's just a guideline. What you hear will determine the actual placement.

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Brian
As you slide down the bannister of life, may the splinters never point the wrong way...

thanks Gimli

sorry, i didn't totally explain this.

i cut those 2x4 sleepers at a 45 degree angle. it allowed me to tuck in the tongue and groove at the angle all the way across the length so i could tap it in with a rubber mallet. i slowly backed them out (lowering the panels and decreasing the angle until it was flat.

why do i want the cloud rigid backed? is that necessary? having it rigid back will help it reflecting backward? but have open backed would allow deeper frequencies to be absorbed right?

The rigid backing on the cloud has a modifying effect on the local floor/ceiling modes, angling this hardbacked cloud further helps to mitigate problems with these modes - similar to splayed walls for the wall/wall modes (angling an open backed cloud would have no such effect).

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Brian
As you slide down the bannister of life, may the splinters never point the wrong way...

Or introduce new issues.

My concern would be why would you take something as heavy as MDF, and then back it with another 3/4 inch material?

What does that weight get you but a potential headache...literally?

There are only a few ways to support an overhead cloud, one is an adjustable tension bar, mounted at the four corners and at the center point to control gravity.

My understanding of the original idea, the MDF with the Plywood backing, is to support the MDF from drift caused by gravity. Say what?

The hangers that will be used will control the drift, support the weight, withOUT the additional weight and not be an issue to the environment.

I had one in my room, clarified the mix and didn't drop on my head, and I even installed it by myself

The addition of another layer of 3/4 inch material, would not have allowed this convenience, if you will.

So while a hard backed might be of some use, it rarely seems fitting in a small room since the absorption needed is always more important.

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

I was wondering about all that. Brien, do you recommend a rigid backing at all in my situation?