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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 8:38 am 
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You may think it's "anal" Mark, but by leaving the kraft paper intact, you're dividing one large air gap into two smaller ones... And we've all seen this image on the forum enough times to know that the ramifications of this can be severe.

Image

Call it "anal" if you wish... :roll: ...but it just seems like a wee bit of effort for a lot of benefit.

Just lookin' out for you, bud. :)

--Keith :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:54 am 
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I understand the MAM properties . . show me the kraft paper's contribution, I only see plasterboard in your example.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 2:49 pm 
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With the paper between your masses, you no longer have MAM. You have MAmAM. (Like the lower case "m"? ;-) )

I don't have any calculations... But I do have these:
knightfly wrote:
. . . batts should be UN-faced for these walls. If you MUST use faced batts, put the paper against one wallboard surface or the other - but do NOT put TWO batts in a wall that BOTH have paper, and do NOT put paper ANYWHERE but against the wallboard - either will create somewhat of a THIRD LEAF, which may improve wall performance at MID range but WORSEN it at low frequency. (source)

knightfly wrote:
. . . use standard fiberglass batts there. IF you use paper faced batts, put the paper next to the wallboard side so it doesn't create a third leaf. (source)

knightfly wrote:
. . . If, within this double framed wall . . . you were to put insulation that had a paper backing, and you placed that backing ANYWHERE but against one of the wallboard surfaces, that would actually HURT the TL through the wall by acting as a third leaf between the other two; so, from an acoustic standpoint, the backing either needs to go against one or the other wallboard surfaces or be REMOVED, or use UN-FACED insulation. (source)

I'm pretty sure Steve would repeat the warning in your thread if he weren't so pressed for time these days... And that doesn't mean he won't. ;-)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:11 pm 
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I think I will make it MAmAM by cutting lots of big slits in it as I am concerned about the fiber glass coming down over the years behid the inner leaf . . I still would like to see the calculations and decide if I care . . . please understand I am not arguing with the laws of physics but rather to what degree it truly matters to ME! I promise not to post on this forum and rip anyone a new a*-hole for bad advice 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:56 am 
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If you use the cheapest paint stir sticks you can get and either a large staple or small nail, you can secure the top of the fiberglass bats to your top plate framing and it will hold up.

The only force working to move the FG is downward (gravity). I'd be worried about the bits of slit paper backing buzzing. Besides, unfaced FG is HALF the price of faced FG. You might have to wait a couple of days to get it, (mine to 3 days but I live in the boonies) but if you are using a lot of it, the money saved can be a lot (it saved me $600).

len


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:11 am 
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I am adding this link to my studio power and lighting system in the "Installation and Wiring" section of the forum.

http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5639

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:07 am 
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More drywall, we finished the ceilings up in the Studio-Stage over the weekend. Thank God for drywall lifts. I think I have over 300 sheets installed so far . . . really starting to hate drywall. Control Room is the last to go . . .


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Last edited by edenorchestra on Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:09 am 
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Omron Electronics Lighting Panel.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:57 am 
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Its been a productive two weeks. I am finally on the last leg of drywall. Last calculation we have used nearly 300 sheets of the dreaded stuff. We did the last ceiling so I can finally put the drywall lilft to bed . . .


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:01 am 
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Flooring is in, I ended up with an engineered oak hard wood, got it on a close out at Lowe's for 58% off the original price, so I save myself a couple few grand.

So now once all the drywall mudding is done we can begin the spraying of the walls with the industrial sprayer.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:44 am 
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Oh and I finally recieved these great pieces from F. Alton Everest. I should have read these long . . long . . ago . . but its never too late. They look like a fantastic life's work.

I hear it referenced all the time. I just recently spoke with Bob Katz, Mastering Czar at Digital Domain and this was one of the very first things he said . . did you get F.A.E.'s book . . . . well just follow the recipes.

Has anyone here read either in its entirety?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:10 pm 
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Pretty much; I have the older version of the "budget" book, first book on acoustics I ever bought (about 1982) - another good read (haven't finished it yet) is Newell's Recording Studio Design. Lotta really useful stuff in it as well... Steve

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Soooo, when a Musician dies, do they hear the white noise at the end of the tunnel??!? Hmmmm...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:55 pm 
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Hey -- it looks great!

I'm just curious: what makes up your exterior wall, from the inside out? From the pictures and your description, it looks like 1/2" OSB, then some number of drywall layers, then the Hardi, but I can't quite tell. Did I get that right?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 2:01 am 
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SB:

From the outside-in: Hardie board, 1/2" OSB, Double 1/2" drywall, insulation, then double 1/2" drywall.

I have trains about 2,000 feet away, and they are all but gone (minute sub low residual as expected). Don't have the inner doors up yet, or the window to the CR. I am happy with the results! (that's the key) I live in the middle of 5 acres and my neighbors are not a problem. As it stands right now with stepping about 6 feet from the building outside, you almost hear nothing. I am anxious to see what happens when the "air locks" get sealed up.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:02 am 
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Cool, sounds like you did everything right; trains, even at 2000 feet, would require at least a 4" thick floated slab on sylomer blocks with rockwool fill between blocks, and probably 2 more layers of everything everywhere in order to get m-a-m resonance to about 6-7 hZ - lotta $$$ if you can stand to record in between trains... Steve

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