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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 11:47 am 
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Good Morning everyone...

Well, I finally got the second layer of subfloor on (well almost all of it...2 sheets shy of completion). After careful consideration of putting the drywall in between layers of subfloor, I initially didn't plan on that much thickness of a floor. As it is, I've already lost several inches having to level the floor, and also didn't stub out the 2 floor outlet boxes I have for the additional thickness of another layer.

So I've opted to use only the 2 layers of 3/4" subfloor. However, I may have a structure born anomaly. I may have not put in enough stringers in one portion of the floor, and when you stomp on the floor, it resonates some low frequencies. Then again, it could also be, I'm in the corner of the room, and it's building up in the corner????

I guess we'll find out soon enough. Hmmmmm....


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 5:47 am 
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Is your insulation actually snug against the underside of the floor sheathing? If not, might consider adding some R-11 batts over the other stuff... Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:37 am 
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Yes, the insulation is up against the floor. I wanted to make sure of that prior to putting on the subfloor.

BTW, the first layer is glued and screwed. There's not a way to disassemble it at this point without a chainsaw...literally. The second layer was also added over this last weekend, but screwed only along w/ some acoustical sealant sandwiched around the outer edge. (and of course all the seams, etc.)

I think what it may be, is in that particular spot, it's 16" OC, and there's only 2 or 3 stringers in a 8 foot span (I'll have to look at the photo's again). Plus it just may be that it's in the corner, and you know how bass builds up in those corners.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 1:43 pm 
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Almost forgot...

I went browsing through HD the other night looking for a solution for easily making anti-sway brackets for the walls to mount to the above joists...and found a few items...

They had everything from "A" angle to stairwell angle (similar to a piece of L metal but w/ some awkward shapes cut, and also predrilled...5 1/4" long by 1 1/2").

Would something along these lines work for this?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 5:54 pm 
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Went there myself last night, everything I saw was too light except for some Stanley 8" "L" brackets at $5.50 each. If you were to use two of those (slightly mutilated) and drill your own holes, you could do a sway bracket that should work at almost any angle. I'll see if my freehand drawing skills :cry: can do this justice - Nope, had to do it with help :?

Anyway, these brackets are nearly 1/4" thick steel, and bent the "easy" way, like you took a flat bar and clamped it in a vise and bent it over at a right angle. They are 8" on a side, so quite a bit will need to be cut off. If you keep them short enough, you might be able to keep them above where the ceiling wallboard intersects the wall which would make it easier.

The rubber should firmly contact the sides of the steel stud cap, preferably at a junction where a stud is fastened. The top rubber does NOT need to touch the frame, all pieces should be glued to the bracket, and a gap left above the stud cap depending on ceiling joist span/deflection. If you need help in this area, holler - I think I already 'splained it though... Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 8:09 pm 
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Thanks Steve,

I'll browse the isles again and see what I can come up w/ for the brackets. Seems like each store has something a little different.

Ok, now I've got some additional questions on this near future framing... as you've seen on my other thread (and this one), the inner angled walls. In constructing these, what order should I build the walls?

Should I (1st) build the outer perimeter of the control room. (2nd) drywall the inside of the outer wall. (3rd) Place the RC on ceiling joists, and drywall 2 layers. (4th) begin framing the inside angled walls and front speaker/soffit wall (5th) whatever materials will be used to cover angled walls.

Do I construct in this order, or do I frame something like steps 1, 4, 2, 3, 5 or something different altogether? Not sure of the proper sequence for the construction. And if it is the first one I posted, how do I mount the inside (angled) walls above? To the drywall & RC? Liquid nail the heck out of it?

BTW, perimeter board...as you've seen in the picture of the floor, and since it's raised some, do I run the 703 from the top of the floating floor, and run it all the way to the concrete? Or only the depth of the subfloor and 2x4's?

Thanks again, I always appreciate the feedback and knowledge,

Aaron


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 9:53 pm 
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This may take a bit, besides the usual "gator quotient I'm on 12-hour graveyards and in the midst of selling a house (with all the attendant crap) - may take a few days before I'm of any use here, other than quick replies (of which yours AIN'T... :? )

At MY HD, those brackets were over with the gate hinges/hardware for some reason - they're close to 1/4" thick, about 1" wide, and 8" x 8" on the legs. Just a simple 90 degree flat steel brace. In fact, when I do those sway braces myself, I'll just use 2" x 1/4 flat bar and bend what I need (I have a bender that does up to 5/16" x 2", or 5/8" round stock, with dies for square corners as well as round bends from 1/2" up through 2"... Steve


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:17 pm 
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I found the perfect mounting scheme. Similar to your idea w/ the 8" brackets (I saw them too), but only I used the Concrete Anchors. They are in an L shape. They are about 4" by 8 or 10", and much thinner than the 1/4" steel. Probably about 1/16" thickness, but very solid galvanized steel. They are also much wider (1 1/2" or 2"?) They're also cheaper...$2.96 each.

I used the design that you posted, and it appears to be working great. I got 2 walls framed up this weekend.

Any luck yet on the sequence of framing?

Thanks,

Aaron


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 3:44 pm 
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Hey Steve,

I've been pondering the ideas on sequence. Frame the outer walls first (control room). I'm using the steel studs for this. The inner splayed walls will go up after the drywall? This way for total isolation of the outer wall.

The inner splayed walls, I will probably use wood as it will probably be easier for multiple reasons as well as support?

The ceiling I'm still trying to figure out. Should I put up the ceiling after doing the outer walls? Then put up the inner walls? How do I secure the inner walls at the ceiling? Screw through to the RC, use construction adhesive?

Also need a quickie answer on the perimeter board. Should I go all the way to the floor with it? The floor is raised up on blocks and rubber for leveling, so in some area's it's a couple inches. If I do go to the floor, should I use construction adhesive to glue the bottom edge to the concrete?

Thanks,

Aaron


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 3:38 pm 
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More questions...

Floor...

The final flooring... Now that the subfloor is completed, and I've started framing walls...do I need to put the final floor on before hanging my drywall, or can it wait until after the walls are complete?

Should I use hardwoods for the entire floor, or should I just do hardwood at the pilot seat area and carpet around the perimeter of the CR?

Any suggestions or preferences on flooring? And how should it be mounted? Should I do a prefinished floor, or go with the raw materials and sand, stain, finish? What about the parquet stuff or...???

Thanks,

Aaron


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:48 pm 
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I have found a site on installing hardwood floors...

http://www.nofma.org/installation.htm


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 9:55 pm 
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I thought you had decided against even USING a perimeter board - if not, and it becomes part of the mass-air-mass of your main isolation (the outer two leaves) then it needs to be caulked/shimmed, whatever it takes to get hermetic seal.

Your ceiling is still a mystery to me - is there a drawing somewhere of your basic intent? If not, we need one.

Your flooring needs to be in place before sheet rock - then, a drop cloth over the floor, spacers laid every few feet, sheet rock up, staggered, taped, etc - finally, pull the spacers out, remove the drop cloth, and caulk.

I'm a bit too buried to be able to sort out all your construction sequence without more time and drawings - been having to take care of a TON of paperwork to get mom's house sold (trust, power of attorney, separate bank account til check is deposited, etc, etc - ) and I ABSOLUTELY HATE paperwork and legal crap, if anything could incite me to pure rage...

Anyway, are you doing your ceiling on a separate suspended frame or is it to be hung from RC on the floor joists? Too many things going to remember -

If you can cut/paste all the questions you STILL need answered into a new post, along with refreshing my memory on the above, I'll try to get to it tomorrow afternoon if I survive tonight... Steve


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 11:50 am 
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OK,

Here's the ceiling. I'll draw some more, for more details.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 12:20 pm 
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Steve,

As far as the perimeter board...I didn't think I needed one, and I still may not??? If I do though, I have to do it now. I'm at a stand still until I know. I can't insulate the new framing until then. I guess the only thing I'm considering using it for is to help reduce flanking. ?? Otherwise, it'll save me money if I don't need to use it.

Here's a repost of some of the questions...

1. Sequence of wall framing & ceiling including soffits and splayed walls.
2. The outer walls are steel framed. Should I steel frame or wood frame the inner splayed walls and front "soffit" wall?
3. In the 3D diagram I posted, still not sure of use of materials for the inner splayed walls. Sheetrock, plywood, mdf, insulation covered in cloth, etc.
4. Speaking of flooring...I assume the hardwoods will go down after framing the "inner" walls?
5. Acoustically, should I consider doing hardwood for the entire CR, or just where the engineers seat is in front of the console and install carpet around the rest of the CR?
6. Flooring...I know this is a personal pref, but it's nice for feedback...what type of hardwood flooring? Prefinished, unfinished & finish myself, parquet?
7. Framing...Assuming the outer wall is up first and drywalled...the inner splayed wall, do I attach and how do I attach to the out wall? Or do I float and just seal w/ caulk?
8. Ceiling...After framing and drywalling outer walls, do I go ahead and RC & drywall the ceiling to the joists? What kind of issues for inner splayed wall construction if done this way? How do I attach inner wall to ceiling???
9. RC...In reading the USG handbook, I understand the spacing (2" from bottom, within 6" of ceiling, but what about where the joint is at 4' up? Do I put 2 pieces here? One for the bottom sheet and one for the top sheet...for the support. Or do I place one piece right at the joint and mount both sheets to it?


AC Questions... I've attached a pic of the location...Just to the right is the CR...

1. For the sends...Should I use Rigid fiberglass board (foiled on one side), or use the flexible stuff?
2. How do I secure it in the framing of the control room? So it doesn't create noise.
3. What should the spacing be for sends & returns?
4. Returns...Rigid fiberglass or flexible tubing?
5. Minimum distance of runs?
6. What about having separate thermostats in each room? Having automatic dampers back at the main unit to control air flow?
7. What type of cover/grating should be used in the rooms to reduce whistling?


I'll ad some more here shortly... OK, I've added some more. Sorry for so many Q's Steve... :P


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Last edited by Aaronw on Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 2:34 pm 
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Here is another drawing to help give some detail of what I'm thinking to try and accomplish and/or in the process of doing.

BTW...THIS IS NOT TO SCALE...JUST A QUICK DRAWING.


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