John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

Hi guys -

In the planning stages, trying to learn what I don't know - it's a lot.

Anyway, has anyone done an inside out ceiling safely? In my situation, the assembly would have to be built on the floor and somehow raised into place...

My ceiling height in the basement is 7'4". Using Rod's book, the room dimensions I want are ~9'6", ~8', and 7' tall. Unfortunately, to do a room in a room (I'm nervous about adding load to the existing structure) I'd need to use 2x3s to get enough clearance, and that doesn't seem like a good idea...if I can figure out a way to build it inside out, I can use 2x6 or even 2x8 and have 4" of clearance above, no problem...actually, 2 3/4", after the drywall is added, but still...more than enough, and it's stronger.

So...I'm asking this because it would make life much easier. I look at the post I just typed and think...man, that's a dumb question. The ceiling assembly would weigh at least 450lbs, I'd need to have two walls in place and the other two framed, and find enough dudes to lift such a beast and hold it over their heads while other dudes did a combination "Chinese-fire-drill-Amish-barn-raising" underneath...without killing anyone.

So...I guess talk me back into it if you think it's at all a good idea...I think typing it out makes me think...NO.



Tim

I suppose the truly obvious choice is to make the maximum height 6'9", but then I have a hobbit hole studio.

Hey Tim. I'm in more or less the same situation as you, except that I have a bit more height. What's above that space? In my case, it's a roof to the outside world, so in the very worst case, I can always take that roof off to get access to teh ceiling from above. But that might not be an option in your case.

Another option that has been suggested is to build the ceiling in sections, down on the floor, then lift each section into place individually. The issue then is getting a good seal between the sections. Doable, I think, but it requires careful work.


- Stuart -

_________________
I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.

103-year-old hand-cut parquet flooring... It stays

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/S0 ... directlink

An architect friend of mine thinks that I'm being too paranoid about the load - he thinks that RC2 (and maybe RISC clips) is the way to go.

OK, so it looks like "access from above" is kind of off the table then?

Great floor, by the way!


Regarding your architect friend: I'd suggest that you find yourself a "structural engineer" friend, too! Even if you have to pay him to be your friend for a few hours. He's the guy who can actually tell you for sure if you are paranoid or not. For what it's worth, personally, I don't think you are! I'd go the same route you are: separate ceiling


- Stuart -

_________________
I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.

Working on the Structural Engineer friend...I have Civvies, Mechs, and Architects...

What about making it in smaller, more easily liftable chunks (like, 24" or 32" wide) and doing 3 layers of drywall...making a 'tongue-and-groove' drywall sandwich? After the first one is in place, prep the second, then silicone caulk the tongue/groove, green glue the wood surface, clamp, screw, next?

Or even...also at a 1x6 across the top, screwed through the drywall from the new piece - then after the tongue and groove is fitted, screw through the drywall as well to hold it together...

Or does the whole thing still smell like crazy?