John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

I am considering adding some 1x6 cedar tongue and groove paneling to one of my rooms. Current wall cross section is 1/2" sheetrock glued to 5/8" sheetrock on resilient channel on 2x4 studs that are independent of the exterior walls / ceiling of the building and the adjacent walls of other studio rooms. I would rather NOT glue the cedar to the sheet rock. I would prefer to blind nail the cedar to the sheet rock with nails that will not penetrate thru the second layer of sheetrock. Thoughts comments suggestions?

well if your walls are independent of external walls why have you got RC?

please fill in your location as per forum rules.

I used the R/C because when I was looking at the stc ratings for different wall assemblies there seemed to be some advantage even for seperate wall construction when there is a common concete slab floor. any thoughts on the attachment of the cedar?

Could you produce either the link or the book that you found this information on?

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

Nailing into sheetrock will not support, well pretty much anything, but specifically T&G in your case.

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

Angled nailing ( aka toe nailing ) of t&g into sheetrock with a 2" wire nail is a standard construction practice around here and is reasonably secure. However my concern is that it might create a bit of a "floating panel" effect and not really couple the cedar to the dry wall.

I will try and source a link for that assemblys STC rating although it was over 6 years ago but I THINK it was the canadian government test labs or the gypsum assoc. of n. america.

a tip of the hat for the the construction guide as I did refer to it extensivly during my design and build out !

I'd be really interested in seeing that, since it doesn't make any sense. The only thing RC will do for you on a decouple wall is give you a bit extra depth to your air gap, which of course will help slightly with isolation. But NOT because the RC is RC: You'd get the exact same effect from anything else with the same thickness. And even then, if you already have a decent air gap then the slight extra depth you get from the thickness of the RC isn't going to make much difference. So I'd really like to see who is promoting such construction, and their data on what difference it makes.

But regarding adding wood paneling to your drywall, I don't see how you can do that without safely (like Brien mentioned), or how you can do it without affecting your isolation. This is just for decoration, right? You are not after any specific acoustic purpose with that paneling?

Why the two different thicknesses of sheetrock? Despite what you might have read on the internet, there really isn't much of an advantage to varying the thickness. Plus you lost some mass (and therefore some isolation) by not going with 5/8 for both layers. And you now have the situation where you want to hang something on that inner layer, which is only 1/2! thick, without penetrating to the next layer, which means that you can only go LESS than 1/2" into it... But why are you concerned about not penetrating through to the 5/8 layer? What problem do you think you will have if you do that? After all, you must have ALREADY penetrated it when you screwed the 1/2" sheetrock in place, so why would it be an issue to penetrate it again, for the paneling?

Also, why did you glue the two layers of drywall together? That doesn't make much sense. It would have been better to leave them independent, especially if you were hoping to get some benefit out of the different thicknesses. They would have had different resonant frequencies and coincidence frequencies separately, but not now...

I reckon your only chance is to attach the paneling safely, is by screwing it directly into the RC, through both layers of drywall. Can you still identify the position of the RC?


- Stuart -

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I want this studio to amaze people. "That'll do" doesn't amaze people.

A blind nail, or toe nail or tongue nail or any of several different terminological phrases do not exist to represent that wood can be nailed into gypsum products. As a substrate the gypsum has no ability to stress the nail and cause it to remain somewhat in place. Even if a ring shanked or coated nail were used this product does not have the density required to keep the nail secure.

Far from it. With a typical t&g board width you will place so many holes in the gypsum to render it useless as an isolation backer first, and a secure substrate, second.

In order for it to work in your part of the world it would have to be effective in other parts as well...it isn't.

What you have most likely seen is someone has glued t&g to the panel and used nails as a means to hold the board onto the panel while the glue dries.

There again, I have been around and here long enough to know that speculation can be a deciding factor

So I say, educate don't speculate.


Brien

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Brien Holcombe
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Sound: You can't stop it, you can only try to contain it.

Well that is part of the problem here - you having a concern with STC ratings........

STC ratings don't cover the frequency range you deal with in studio construction - which is dominated by the lower frequencies, so not a good place to begin.

You have actually lowered your isolation (in the lower range especially) by using the RC - and lowered it as well by gluing the 2 sheets together.

from my point of view blind nailing directly to sheerock would be a mistake - I would be very concerned with the potential for movement down the road....... but gluing - and using blind nailing to hold the members in place while the construction adhesive sets - should be just fine.

Rod

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Ignore the man behind the curtain........

Plasterboard has no real structure without the paper layers.
Xspace is right, the nails will just pull out.

Why are you adding the cedar?

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inkspotproductions
www.bantamstudio.info