John Sayers' Recording Studio Design Forum

here's a sketchup file of a typical small studio - I knocked this freeby up for a friend the other day so I though I'd share it with you.

BTW I just updated to the latest version of sketchup 5 so you may need to download the latest viewer from http://www.sketchup.com

Stuff/Small_Studio.skp


here's another modular design for small rooms. Select all the component parts and group them. Then re-scale to suit your room.

Stuff/components.skp

cheers
john

Wow, nice job! I really have to start using tabs in sketchup. Something you might not have noticed is that the pc's are floating in the air. Could also be a version conflict though.

Hi
this Design looks really good.

Is this sheetrock on the wall?



Are these panels really out of cloth? (Page = "cloth panels")



Does this cloth panel (with insulation and framing) work in the same way like this rear absorber?



Do you have a formular for those rear absorbers? (for slot helmholz I found)

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Metric/ Imperial Converter
German/ English Converter

The cloth panels are made like this.

cheers
john

You can now see th finished studio at the studio under construction site as Scotts Studio.

Studio/index.htm

cheers
john

Hello John,

This design looks really nice indeed.

Two questions :

1. On the "Clouds-cloth panels..gif" plan I don't understand where the insulation goes. Is it mouted inside the frame ? According to the drawing it looks more like the insulation is mounted flush on the frame. In this case, is the insulation only maintained in place by the cloth ? How does it look with the cloth "compressing" the angles of the insulation ?

2. With a design like this how easy it is to change the speakers for a bigger model ? Do you have to reframe the entire front ?

Thanks,

Michel

Hi Michel - Normally I hold it all up by wrapping it up with a plastic wrap. Yes - garden plastic - like Alex did in the following pic for his ceiling. I've found it acts as a HF reflector despite the cloth cover yet the rest goes through. It keeps the liveness and clarity in the room IMO.

Studio/Mainpage/MP-Funky_1.htm



The speaker front can change for any speaker, providing the depth is OK for the speaker size. It basically extends the speaker baffle to the floor except it adds an absorbent front to allow for reflections off the rear of the gear and puter screens etc. The port allows for floor/wall bass buildup to have somewhere to go where it hopefully dissipates.

cheers
john

wow, thats awesome

hi.. i posted a similar question in the construction forum but haven't heard anything; thought i'd try it in the original design thread (in other words, apologies for the redunancy)..

in the sketchup plans, it appears to me that the interior frame is padded with insulation and then the resonators and cloth panels are affixed directly to the the frame with no sheetock or other layer of wall covering in between... is this correct?

also, is the insulation packed between the studs touching the outside walls or the back of the various absorber frames?

finally, as far as i understand it's basically imperative to use the dense semi-rigid 703-type stuff in the panels/resonators, but is this also the case for the insulation between the studs (not in the sense that it would prevent sound transmission but in terms of maintaining the acoustical integrity of the room)?

thanks loads for your help!
bryan

I have a quick question.... and btw very nice job on the sketch up. On all the plans i've seen the control room walls are connecting to the interior building walls. My understanding was that the control room is suppose to be completely isolated and not touching anything. I think i'm confused here. I understand the suspended floor, but I think i'm missing someone about the walls. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks

Praxam

should i bore a hole on the back panel of the box or just should i remove back panel like in Paddy2.skp ?

the following is the reply from the Yamaha technical supportor about plugging the port of Yamaha hs80m speaker
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello,
I wouldn't plug the ports, they contribute to the speakers' sound. I actually
think that flush mounting them will alter the sound as well, but you can judge
how good or bad they sound. They are meant to have some space behind them. If
you do flush mount them, maybe leave a bunch of extra space in the cavity so
the ports can function as designed, at least a little bit.

-Matt
---------------------
hello.
I have Hs80m that are rear ported. I would like to flush mount them if it would
be benefitial in any way.
If I do flush mount them, should I plug the port or just let it fire into the
triangular cavity they will be mounted in?
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hi, i am a newbie. and somewhat bad at english.
therefore,especially as for slang, i might have some trouble in communicating..
and thank u for your kindness and great info
have a nice day

student - the rear port on many speakers is there to support the low end response. Soffit mounting ALSO supports the low end response.

IMHO they balance out in the low end but the soffit mount also supports the rest of the response by making the stereo imaging much tighter and more accurate.

cheers
john

Very nice design which i think im going to use for the controlroom part with a smaller booth.
I have questions to the wall aswell.
in my construction i wall have to make the rearwall soundproof since there is a neighbough on the otherside of a brickwall or i think its build out of those thin blocks of concrete(?)
Oh well the question is can i put up plasterboards on the backwallframing and still maintain a the right accoustics?
Also are the cloth panels not a bit vaulnerable if you accidently lean against or something similar happens?

The room i intend to build it in is w4,3 x L 3,1 x H 4,1. Is room ratios of any matter when you dont have any parrallel surfaces? Thinking more specifik on the height of the ceiling. I do intend to build a new one inside the room but dont really know how high it should be.
Kind regards!

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Denmark, Copenhagen

Wow...very cool design for a small studio!

I am interested in adapting this to the dimensions of a place I am looking at.
I have been able to resize the structure to fit the dimensions but is there a way to do it without resizing the wood frames and components? I want to make sure it is to scale. I did check with Sketchup but was unable to figure it out. Any help?

Best,
Keith

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Keith Orfanides
Light of Day Studios
http://www.lightofdaystudios.com

No keith - there isn't a way to resize without changing the timber (stud wall) dimensions.

But if you CtrlA the design and resize to fit your project and and ignore timber sizes you'll still get the idea.

cheers
john